American piepick

Holla for olallieberry!

By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix

July 1, 2008

 
American pie
Promised pie @ Jongewaard's Bake-n-Broil (Credit: Shane Redsar)
This sweetie pie ain’t so humble. Bedazzled in deep jewel tones, this splendiferous specimen of a fruit is the olallieberry. Pronounced with an “oh-la-luh,” the fancy-pants name might sound au français, but it’s completely American-made. Genetically-engineered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to be exact.

The olallieberry was born in 1949 at Oregon State University with the government-sanctioned miscegenation of a youngberry and a dewberry, both of which are hybrids themselves. The product of this happy union is roughly two parts blackberry, one part raspberry—and all parts delicious, taking the collective sweetness of its black-and-rasp family tree without any of the tartness.

It’s a persnickety little thing, too: Unable to thrive in the Pacific Northwest, olallieberries are primarily grown in California. Even still, the season is terribly short, starting around mid-June and disappearing not long after 4th of July—which, in a way, makes this baked treat a truly patriotic pie.

Few restaurants or bakeries in Los Angeles bother with the olallieberry—but the ones that do are expert pie practitioners. Call ahead (and cross fingers) to see if the big O is available. The last time we spoke to Jongewaard’s Bake-n-Broil in Long Beach, we were told that this year’s season started late, which might mean more olallie well into July. Here’s pie in your eye!

Jongewaard’s Bake-n-Broil
$4.28 (includes tax)/slice
$12.95/whole
Pre-orders for July 4 is highly recommended
Open July 4: 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Pie ‘n Burger
$4.25/slice
$19/whole—plus 50-cent deposit for pie tin.
For whole pie, call one day in advance.
Open July 4: 7 a.m.-9 p.m.

Polly’s Pies
$3.99/slice
$13.49/whole
Long Beach location (at Atlantic Ave.) is open July 4: 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles—and will gladly insert piehole joke here.

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