OK, let's say you're lonesome for the '50s and '60s and need a shot of Formica to bring you back to life. Perhaps you fashion yourself a closet lounge lizard, an ultra mod and even a swankster. Or maybe you just, like, wanna have some fun, Daddy-o.

If any of the above feels hip to the jive, the eclectic Jetsetter Lounge, a "retro theme park for modern minds," might be the inspiration you've been waiting for.

Think turquoise painted walls, space-age molded plastic chairs and retro everything. Step beyond the main dining room/ballroom and you're in the middle of a lush dining garden with a spewing fountain, faux Easter Island moai statues and flaming tiki torches.

Ultra enthusiastic servers, each dolled up in assorted vintage clothing styles, should consider marketing as alternative careers. Ours excelled at leading us to believe that anything we put in our mouths here would be the best thing ever. Not that we didn't want to buy into the idea as we browsed a menu that seems like a three-ring circus of global fare sent out by a kitchen dedicated to spicy dishes and serious portions.

Complimentary starters are a warm salt-crusted soft pretzel and delicious homemade banana muffin partnered with honey lime mustard sauce and mango cream cheese. Following with African peanut soup ($3.95), like we did, is like sipping liquid peanuts in a soup lacking body and seasoning. A little is plenty. But, curry-infused chicken kebobs (two big ones for $7.95) are successful with loads of juicy boneless chicken breast chunks crammed onto sugar cane skewers. Chilled banana chutney spiked with ginger and raisins cool the spice.

Go ahead. Fess up your affinity for that so-yesterday first course pigs in blankets. For $6.95, whole kosher dogs are baked in light flaky pastry, then cut into manageable pieces and served with half-sour pickle spears and deli mustard. Cuban cigars ($6.95) means fried won-ton wrappers filled with roast pork and julienned veggies. Sounds like a good idea on paper, but there's nothing significant on the inside except crunchy veggies. And, the fruit salsa accompaniment is more of an Asian-style clear sweet sauce than salsa.

The bayou bowl, the best of our entrees at $15.95, is well-spiced gumbo with plump shrimp, meaty chorizo, crayfish and okra.

We couldn't wait to try our server's description of "homemade" wahoo patties, a towering creation called a Samoan stack served on a foundation of sweet potato fries ($17.95). Very good creamy crabmeat sauce dribbles down the whole thing, but there wasn't enough of the promised pineapple salsa to make its point. The precise fish burgers didn't echo homemade in looks or texture, though I can't fault the taste. And, an unfortunate vegan lasagna ($13.95) wasn't anything close to the Italian classic we hoped for. Instead, it seems assembled in a minute, with loosely stacked pasta, pesto sauce, vegetables and tofu -- a dish that tastes like no one is minding the kitchen.

For childhood throwbacks, have fresh cookies (six baked to order) and a tall glass of milk for dessert ($6.95), but order them with the main course. They're fine, just not worth waiting an extra 30 minutes for if you order after the main course.

You may not discover fine cuisine at Jetsetters, but if you like fun, liquid libations and June Cleaver delivering warm cookies, it's groovy.

Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities.

Judith Stocks is a freelance writer for the Sun-Sentinel.

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