A culinary circus

Get a ringside seat at Michael's Kitchen

By Riki Altman

Special to Metromix
January 9, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
4

A culinary circus
This location is no longer in business and is only available so that readers can compare it to the new Kitchen 305.

After serving up what he calls “the cure for boring food,” Chef Michael Blum packed up his wagons and moved the Michael’s Kitchen show to a newly renovated space in Sunny Isles Beach. Though the environment is completely different, some things remain the same—namely that his focus on presentation and flavor take center stage.

The Ringmaster: He won’t be wearing a top hat, but it’s easy to spot Chef Michael because the guy is usually donning a red tie–dyed shirt and a baseball cap. Okay, it’s not traditional chef garb, but he’s no traditional chef. Plus he claims to have graduated first in his class from the Culinary Institute of America so he can pretty much wear whatever he’d like. Expect to see him behind the line, full of energy, amidst flames.

Under the Big Top: Since everything was built to suit, Chef Michael had his way with the décor. It’s super contemporary with colorful lighting and special features like a chef’s table, wine room and open kitchen. At the entrance to the restaurant is a beautiful bar featuring tempting signature vodka infusions. (Be sure to look over the list of mixed drinks. You’ll definitely find some concoctions you’ve never seen before.) No other space in Sunny Isles has as much pizzazz.

Concessions: If your last experience with popcorn shrimp was at Long John Silver’s, it’s time to give it another go. Chef Michael serves up crispy bites of rock shrimp along with melted butter and some actual popped corn all in a paper cup just like you’d get at the theater. Other fun and tasty appetizers include the oversized filet mignon meatballs. Try the thin–crust flatbreads, too, in either traditional (with homemade marinara, mozzarella and oregano), roasted garlic white, crisp chicken carbonara, or wild forest mushroom and brie.

Center Ring: If you have the guts, dare to sink a fork into the smokey black truffle Maine lobster mac & cheese. This gorgeous casserole of penne with gooey mascarpone, gouda, parmesan and cream is accented with chunks of sweet lobster. It’s an undeniable showstopper. (If you’d rather order it as a side, heed this warning: it’s too also large to be consumed by just one person.) Other hits include the slow–roasted, short rib tacos with roasted corn, peppers, tomatoes, nacho queso and sour cream-cilantro slaw, and the Southern–fried boneless half chicken.

Clowning Around: Desserts here are for those assured that their fillings are all in place. Devour the deep dish Rice Krispie treat pizza with homemade raspberry jam, shaved white chocolate and berries; cook up the tableside campfire s’mores; and get down ‘n dirty with the triple chocolate crusted peanut butter pie with oreo crust. Order these with the intent to share, however, or your guests will think you’re really a clown.

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