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Boca bailando

This Cuban restaurant gets your mouth dancing

By Donald Kim

Special to Metromix
February 1, 2008

Critic's Rating:

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When I introduce someone to Cuban cuisine, I take them to any of the Padrino's restaurants. The Padrino family started their first restaurant in Hialeah in 1976, offering family recipes for traditional Cuban cuisine. As their popularity grew, they relocated northward and expanded to four locations (with more on the way).

Starters: The Combinacion Cubana appetizer ($9.99) is a great way to begin the meal. It has a sampling of traditional starters: crispy plantain chips, yucca croquettes, chicken canelones (Cuban–style chicken cordon bleu) and beef–stuffed balls of mashed potato (papas rellenos).

Only three salads are offered. They are simple, but always very fresh. There is lettuce and tomato ($3.99); Ensalada de Verduras ($5.29), which consists of greens, tomatoes, onions, kidney beans and olives; and Ensalada con Pollo a la Plancha ($6.99), which is the bean salad just mentioned with the addition of grilled chicken breast.

Traditional: The classic Cubano sandwich ($5.99) is simplistic perfection. Ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese and pickles are stuffed into fresh Cuban bread and press–grilled. Served with either french fries or plantain chips, this is a very satisfying lunch or light dinner. The Media Noche ($5.49) is the same sandwich made on press–grilled egg bread instead of traditional Cuban bread.

Specials: From the Padrino's specialties, be sure to try the Arroz Relleno ($10.29). This is a cheese–topped, brick-sized loaf of yellow rice with a thick layer of chicken breast chunks and mozzarella cheese in the middle. There is plenty to enjoy as leftovers, or for two to share.

Padrino's Paella ($17.99) is the most expensive dish on the menu, but could feed a small family. Large pieces of chicken, scallops, shrimp, fish, mussels and a large langostino adorn a heaping bowl of yellow rice which has absorbed all the delicate seafood flavors.

Not to be missed from the Cuban favorites section of the menu is Churrasco Steak ($14.29). This is a skirt steak that has been marinated in a mix of chopped parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice (chimichurri), then chargrilled. The marinade perfectly tenderizes the beef, and adds a delicate, complex flavor that is absolutely savory.

The Filete de Tilapia a la Plancha ($12.99) is a perfectly cooked tilapia fillet seared on a griddle rather than flame–grilled. The result is very mild and extremely moist. The dish is not complicated, but derives excellence through expert preparation.

Entrees are served with a choice of either two or three sides (depending on the entree).

Dessert: The flan ($3.89) is incredibly smooth. Padrino's uses the term "velvety" on the menu, but that's not superlative enough to describe how amazing it is.

Pudin de Pan ($4.59), their house–made coconut bread pudding, is absolutely marvelous. The Cuban bread adds a subtle airiness to what is typically thought of as a heavy dessert.
    

Donald Kim is a freelance writer for the Sun-Sentinel. This review was adapted from the Sun-Sentinel's Showtime section.


Cuisine: Cuban
Cost: inexpensive-moderate
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: no
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: prohibited
Children's facilities: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes

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