Casimir's cuisine is on point

This Boca Raton restaurant employs classic technique with flare

By Donald Kim

Special to Metromix
May 9, 2008

Critic's Rating:
4

Casimir's cuisine is on point
(Credit: LA Times)
At first glance, the menu at Casimir Bistro seems unfocused. Exactly what cuisine combines Cajun chicken, duck a l'orange, veal scaloppine, New York steak and mussels with French fries? But while the menu is eclectic, the preparations are based in classic French culinary technique. The plates demonstrate a distinct passion for food and a "Boca Bohemian" theme.

Proprietors and Paris natives Laurent and Doris Di Meglio operate the newly opened restaurant with warmth and hospitality. The service staff is attentive without being overbearing; they are relaxed without being lax.

The place: Half of Casimir Bistro's tables are outside on Royal Palm Place's covered walkway. Although smoking is permitted at these tables, the area is a spacious and comfortable setting in which to relax and enjoy a meal, a glass of wine and the seasonal climate.

Daytime menu: The lunch menu offers a great selection of sandwiches and salads, as well as a few entrees. Two notable lunch selections are the Crazy Chicken Sandwich ($9.75), consisting of Key lime coconut curry–marinated chicken on ciabatta; and Salad Nicoise ($14), consisting of pan–seared tuna, haricots, potato, egg and tomato with anchovy–balsamic vinaigrette.

Sunset bites: From the evening appetizer menu, we sampled the Artichoke and Goat Cheese Fondant ($11) and the Foie-Gras ($19). Both were marvelous. The tender artichoke hearts, drizzled with sun–dried tomato vinaigrette, are a nice contrast to the creamy sharp chevre cheese. The pate–style goose liver is presented with caramelized tart apples, fresh grapes and a light accent of port wine reduction. Both plates are pleasing to the eye and exquisite to the palate.

Pan Seared Sea Scallops ($22.50) is a generous portion of very large and perfectly seared scallops, accompanied by light and savory saffron-herb beurre blanc. The sauce complements the delicate shellfish without overpowering. This entree is plated with jasmine rice pilaf and a garden vegetable melange in adequate amounts.

Crispy Duck a L'Orange ($26) is a perfect example of this classic French entree. The orange sauce is subtly tart, but not cloying, tasting more of the succulent duck than the sauce. The skin on the half duck is crispy, yet the meat is juicy, tender and flavorful.

Sweet endings: The dessert menu is small but nice; all items are made in-house and priced at $7. Peach Melba, a rarity on dessert menus, is a wonderful treat. Rich vanilla ice cream is topped with fresh peach slices, thick raspberry sauce and fresh whipped heavy cream. Their Tarte Tartin a la mode is simple excellence with fresh tart green apples baked in a house-made pastry.

Donald Kim is a freelance writer for the Sun-Sentinel. This review was adapted from the Showtime section of the Sun-Sentinel.

Casimir Bistro
Cuisine: French
Address: Royal Palm Place, 416 Via de Palmas, Boca Raton; 561-955-6001
Cost: moderate
Credit cards: AE, MC, V
Hours: lunch, dinner Tuesday-Saturday; brunch Sunday
Reservations: recommended
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: outside tables
Wheelchair accessible: yes