Council Oak is fit for five starspick

This Hollywood seafood and steak house is top-notch

By Judith Stocks

Special to Metromix
July 11, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
5

Council Oak is fit for five stars
Council Oak Steak and Seafood
Address:
1 Seminole Way, Hollywood, FL, 33314
Phone:
954-327-7501
Overall User Rating:
4 (11 ratings)
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Hours:
5 p.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday. 5 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday brunch.
Official Web Site:
http://www.seminolehardrockhollywood.com/restaurants_bars/council_oak_steaks_seafood/

Ask most chest–beating carnivores what they want in a steakhouse and chances are they'll answer, with primal joy, "Well–marbled steaks and great sides."

Expect that and more at Council Oak Steaks & Seafood, where the meat is USDA prime dry–aged beef and the supporting cast of sides includes a posh lobster mac and cheese.

Such attributes are the result of Seminole Hard Rock Entertainment teaming up with the New York Yankees' parent company, Yankee Global Enterprises, to open a steakhouse called NYY Steak that is modeled after the Hollywood and Tampa Council Oak restaurants. The first is expected to open above the Hard Rock Cafe in right field in the new Yankee Stadium.

The food: That's when New Yorkers will discover oysters Rockefeller ($14) with a hint of Pernod, just enough bacon for a touch of smokiness, fresh spinach, a dab of hot sauce and melt–in–your–mouth bechamel. Bravo! Signature corn and crab chowder ($9) bursts with sweet corn flavor and lump crabmeat, not that you should overlook the lobster bisque ($10). Each sherry–laced, cream-enriched spoonful carries intense lobster flavor, distinguishable lobster meat and elegant puff pastry croutons.

I love the house Caesar ($9), which successfully carries subtleties of lemon and anchovies in a dressing that adheres to every inch of crisp romaine. The kitchen wisely doesn't overdress the greens. Or, try housemade airy mozzarella in the Caprese ($11), combined with red and yellow vine-ripe tomatoes and drizzles of plate–licking-good balsamic.

The meat: This steakhouse sears its beef at 1,300 degrees, whether it's a 12-ounce New York sirloin ($39); prime rib with Yorkshire pudding ($35 queen cut, $41 king cut); filet mignon ($35-$40); or an enormous 20–ounce cowboy rib-eye ($40). Cooked to perfect ruby–centered medium rare, the rib–eye oozes juices and has a sufficient amount of fat for flavor.

An ideally cooked, fork–cuttable, simple veal chop ran a cool $54, while two double–cut grilled Colorado lamb chops rang up at $44, market. Yet, meat isn't Council Oak's only asset. Our pan-seared, oven–finished Chilean sea bass ($37, market) was expertly timed and only improved by Champagne saffron sauce with buttery undertones.

The extras: Sides are priced at $7 except for the $11 lobster mac and cheese—extra cheesy with Gruyere, cheddar and Manchego.

Classic creamed spinach tastes like velvet; dauphinoise potatoes (the French answer to scalloped potatoes), with a cheese/crumb topping, isn't as creamy as some but still worth real–estate space in your stomach; and the garlic mashed potatoes, redolent of roasted garlic, are memorable.

The vino: Thin-lipped stemware matches the multiple-page wine list, on which I counted several bottles at a comfy $26; the selections range up to $2,795 in case you win big in the casino. There's a full page of pours by the glass, most selling for double digits.

The end: Any of the housemade finales dares you to leave even the slightest morsel. Nostalgia-inducing baked Alaska ($10) is always fun, but I'd rather loosen my belt a notch for the chocolate souffle ($14).

It's deeply chocolate–y and totally scrumptious with crusty edges and a final splash of creme anglaise.

Add it all up and you've got the culinary equivalent of a basic black dress—a restaurant always in good taste.

Cuisine: American
Addess: Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, 1 Seminole Way, Hollywood, 954-327-7501
seminolehardrock.com
Cost: expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: dinner nightly, Sunday brunch
Reservations: strongly advised
Bar: full service
Sound level: can be noisy
Smoking: outdoors
Children's facilities: boosters, high chairs
Wheelchair accessible: yes

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