(Credit: Sun-Sentinel/Jim Rassol)
- Address:
- 11701 Lake Victoria Gardens Ave., Palm Beach Gardens, FL, 33410
- Phone:
- 561-296-4900
- Overall User Rating:
-
(1 rating)
- Hours:
- 5-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-midnight. Friday-Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday
- Official Web Site:
- http://www.theglaziergroup.com/restaurants/striphouse_pbg/
The risque decor celebrates early 20th century burlesque in a fun way. Mood lighting, red velvet settees and formally dressed staff create an atmosphere of seductive pleasures. The vintage photo reproductions on the walls may not be appropriate to all ages and tastes.
The choices: The menu offers traditional steakhouse dishes, but the preparations and presentations are innovative.
Warm garlic bread with Gorgonzola fondue ($8) is a stack of crispy garlic breadsticks surrounded by a velvety and piquant warm Gorgonzola dip. The bread was a little oily, but it was nice and garlicky, so as to be not unpleasant. The sauce was absolutely delightful.
Lobster bisque ($14) at the Strip House raises the bar on a classic. A crispy red pepper ravioli is served in a bath of intensely flavorful lobster stock; the server then pours warmed heavy cream into the bowl in front of the diner. The visually inviting swirls of cream and stock are reminiscent of the red patterned silk that abounds in the decor.
Categorized as a "table share appetizer," the Foie Gras Torchon ($17) is a large plateful of decadently rich slices of buttery goose liver, bejeweled with fig halves and drizzled with a slightly sweet fig reduction. Freshly toasted slices of crusty baguette complete the dish. Torchon denotes the classic preparation of foie gras in which the liver is wrapped in a towel and gently poached, so there is no "fat cap" as on a terrine.
The meats: Steaks are center stage at the Strip House and, of course, the New York strip is the star. Offered in 16–ounce ($41) and 20–ounce ($51) cuts, it is nicely aged and flame-grilled. The steak is excellent, and to add sauce or further seasoning would be a sin.
The filet mignon was also excellent, and available in 10–ounce ($35) and 14-ounce ($41) cuts. The Stilton cheese sauce is a truly remarkable complement, but should be used sparingly because the intensity could drown the delicate flavor of the filet.
A limited amount of chateaubriand is available, and other cuts of beef are on the menu.
The veal T-bone piqued my interest; however, the Colorado lamb rack ($38) won my favor. The lamb rack is lightly crusted with Dijon and breadcrumbs and served cut into two-bone pieces. The dish is presented on a bed of white bean stew, which gives the savory meat a nicely understated backdrop.
Side dishes: Typically, steakhouses offer ho–hum side dishes, focusing instead on the meat. The Strip House offers some innovative side dishes—decadent and worth the reckless abandon of health consciousness. The sauteed wild mushrooms ($10), black truffle creamed spinach ($11) and crisp goose–fat potatoes ($11) were unadulterated guilty pleasures.
The dessert: The coup de grâce is the 24–layer chocolate cake ($16). The nicely light crème brûlée ($9) has a perfectly caramelized top.
Donald Kim is a freelance writer for the Sun-Sentinel. This review was adapted from the Showtime section of the Sun-Sentinel.
Cuisine: American
Address: 11701 Lake Victoria Gardens Ave., Palm Beach Gardens; 561-296-4900
www.theglaziergroup.com
Cost: expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: dinner nightly
Reservations: recommended
Bar: full service
Sound level: quiet
Wheelchair accessible: yes
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