(Credit: Armadillo Beach)
- Address:
- 1200 S. Federal Highway, Dania Beach, FL, 33004
- Phone:
- 954-920-6166
- Overall User Rating:
-
(1 rating)
- Hours:
- 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 6-10 p.m. Thursday and 6-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
- Official Web Site:
- http://www.armadillobeach.com
Located to the north of the not-so-deluxe Deluxe Inn, Armadillo Beach’s distinctive Southwestern-inspired gourmet cuisine would seem more at home in downtown Hollywood or in Boca Raton’s Mizner Park. But, in the same way the first Armadillo succeeded in spite of its location, Armadillo Beach should mark its place as well because McCarthy's food is as good as ever. And besides, McCarthy isn’t alone in taking high-end cooking to a lower-rent address. Take, for instance, the once-ignored and decidedly un-trendy 6000 block of Biscayne Boulevard in Miami, where Michelle Bernstein’s Michy’s has become a dining destination. Armadillo could do the same in Dania Beach.
The Classics: Like pop bands that can’t do a show without playing all the hits for their fans, McCarthy could hardly stage a full revival without bringing back the dishes that put him among the vanguard of South Florida chefs in the late 1980s and ‘90s. The old favorites are found almost entirely among the starters, beginning with the smoked duck quesadilla served with a cranberry-pear chutney; and tequila-grilled shrimp that are placed on corncakes and brushed with chipolte butter and finished with a spoonful of tomato salsa. Armadillo aficionados will also find the goat cheese fried in an almond crust and accented with a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette and mango salsa. The new appetizers include Caribbean conch served in a three-vinegar syrup and sesame-seared Ahi tuna. Entire meals, tapas-style, are made from this and other starters.
The Fish is the Dish: McCarthy has always cast a wide and curious net when searching for unusual ingredients, once serving buffalo and antelope as entrees at Armadillo I. Here, for a new dish, he imports Hawaiian kona kampachi, a farm-raised yellowtail snapper that has a bit more fat (and Omega-3 oils) than the yellowtail we find locally. The fish is pan seared and placed on a mound comprised of mashed potatoes on the bottom and garlic-speckled spinach on top. McCarthy spoons a citrus sauce over and around the two pieces of yellowtail and finishes the dish with a vegetable medley of corn, edamame and asparagus. As good as the firm, white fish was, the veggies, particularly the garlicy spinach, were as satisfying. The signature Armadillo snapper, served with roasted red and yellow peppers, mushrooms, garlic, chopped tomato and ginger is also available, as is another classic, the 22-ounce bone-in cowboy steak.
Wine and beer: Unlike many gourmet menus that only go well with wine, McCarthy’s food is subtle enough to pair with the finest wines and soulful enough to match with a robust beer. There are about three dozen wines on a well-chosen list, roughly two-thirds of them priced under $40. A refreshingly bright Chardonnay from the New Mexico winery Gruet (yes, New Mexico) is available by the glass and bottle. Armadillo also stocks a selection of off-brand beers.
The Look: Unlike Armadillo I, which played up its Southwestern influences with adobe stylings, this Armadillo is more neutral. The walls are painted two shades of gold, one more yellow than the other. There are 40 seats in the dining room and six at the small bar. Sidewalk seating is also available outside, facing Federal Highway.
Jeff Rusnak is a freelance writer based in Fort Lauderdale.
