Off the Five-O radar

(Credit: Rhonda Vanover)

First impression: More patio bar than restaurant, the "kitchen" is a converted 24–foot step van from which owner Chrissy Benoit sends out some amazingly inexpensive Latin–inspired dishes. Eating here is an adventure.

Ambience: A small shed–like building houses a bar with a few stools and restrooms. Otherwise, diners sit outside at picnic tables or metal tables and chairs. There's room for about 50. Food is served on paper plates, beer in plastic cups.

Background: Benoit grew up in Southern California eating Mexican fish tacos and her father lives on a boat in Puerto Rico, where she loves the cocina criolla. After working as a training and service supervisor for Wolfgang Puck for several years, Benoit struck out on her own. Her restaurant is celebrating its two-year anniversary this month—a few months shy of the official start of the recession—but her timing couldn't have been any better. Last April, she was featured on Food Network's Diners, Drive-ins & Dives.

Entree excellence: There are just a dozen items on the menu—all $9 or less—including four kinds of tacos: marinated shredded chicken, roast pork, grilled achiote-rubbed fish and seasoned ground beef. They're $6 for an order of two. Fish tacos are $7. These generously filled tacos are served in very good soft flour tortillas. The Cuban Pressed Sandwich ($6) is made with real roast pork, although the bread wasn't real Cuban. Handmade Empanadas ($6.50, 3 per order) are filled with nicely seasoned beef. Pork tamales ($7, 2 per order) are served free form, rather than rolled in corn husks; they are topped with green chili and cheddar cheese. Benoit's most ingenious invention is something she calls Pionono ($7). Don't miss this Cuban Shepherd's Pie made with layers of sauteed plantain and picadillo, seasoned ground beef with raisins and olives. Like so much on the menu, it gets its inspiration from Latin cuisine, but moves it into an entirely new direction.

On the lighter side: Look elsewhere. This is stick–to–your–ribs satisfying food.

Sweet!: Tres leche cake ($4.50) is a nice riff on tradition, although not as creamy.

Service: So friendly and efficient, you'll forget you're sitting outside in the heat in July.

Liquid assets: An incredible beer selection includes Monk in the Trunk organic amber ale on draft from Jupiter's Inlet Brewing Co. Sangria comes in five versions: traditional red and white, fresh strawberry and mint, triple berry with fresh basil and fresh mango passion fruit pineapple. It's $6 per glass or $20 for a pitcher.

Dining deal: Taco Tuesdays, 4-7 p.m., features $1 tacos, excluding fish. On Wine Down Wednesdays, any bottle of wine or pitcher of sangria is $10 when at least two people at the table order dinner.

Havana Hideout
Address: 509 Lake Ave., Lake Worth; 561-585-8444
havanahideout.com
Cuisine: Latin
Cost: inexpensive
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: large parties only
Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V
Bar: beer, wine
Sound level: quiet except during open mic nights, 8-11 p.m. Tuesday and 5-8 p.m. Sunday
Outside smoking: yes (hookahs also available)
Wheelchair accessible: yes

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