Plate after plate of oral delightpick

Amici Ristorante & Bar fixes for five stars

By Donald Kim

Special to Metromix
June 13, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
5

Plate after plate of oral delight
(Credit: Flickr / gallerygourmet)
Amici Ristorante & Bar
Address:
375 S. County Road, Palm Beach, FL, 33480
Phone:
561-832-0201
Overall User Rating:
0 (0 ratings)
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Hours:
11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday
Official Web Site:
http://www.amicipalmbeach.com
Amici Ristorante & Bar has been a jewel in Palm Beach's tiara for 14 years.

Modern decor, polished tableware and crisp linens create an elegant ambience. On weekends, a jazz trio plays in the dining room at just the right volume.

Service: The service is exceptional. The seemingly endless brigade of staff anticipates every need and tends the patrons with perfect timing. This level of service epitomizes the difference between eating a meal and truly dining.

The menus: The menu is a showcase of the chef's skills and discipline to classic Italian cuisine. Each plate is a delightful work of art crafted with the very finest ingredients. Every plate that crossed the dining room turned heads.

While examining the menu and extensive wine list, a basket of focaccia, soft rolls and crisp flatbreads is placed on the table. It is accompanied by a wonderful plate of assorted plump olives.

Oral pleasures: From the Antipasto Freddi, the Carpaccio ($16.50) is not to be missed. The delicate slices of thinner–than–paper filet mignon practically melt in your mouth then explode with savory rich flavor. The accompanying salad garnish of lemon and olive oil-dressed arugula and heart of palm provides an exquisitely sharp palate refresher between bites.

The Misto Crudo ($16.50) sampler plate is a whirlwind tour of Europe's finest cured hams. Aged Spanish serrano ham, prosciutto di Parma and smoked, peppered Austrian Speck ham all grace the plate. It is a remarkable experience to compare the three delicacies at one sitting.

The An appetizer special is Burrata Pugliese ($25), an incredibly soft and creamy, house–made buffalo cheese plated with unique, indigo–colored tomatoes and garni. The presentation is stunning, the contrasting colors vibrant.

Foreplay: The first-course Risotto Milanese ($25) has the perfect amount of firmness in the grains and a sauce of velvety smooth creaminess.

Main attraction: Among the entrees, the plate of freshly made, whole-wheat Pappardelle ($26.50) is served tossed with sausage and broccoli rabe and topped with exquisite shaved Parmesan. Notably, the sauce on this pasta dish is minimal; all the wonderful flavor comes from the main components.

Gamberoni Capa Sante ($28) wowed the table. Immense shrimp and sea scallops are grilled and creatively presented on a bed of sauteed diced garden vegetables tossed with large pearl couscous. The intensely flavorful couscous would have made a fine meatless meal.

Scallopine Valdostana ($28) is an elegant plate of fork–tender veal and fresh house–made gnocchi. The light sauce and neutral flavor of the gnocchi allow delicately flavored scaloppine to shine through. The aged New York steak, Bisteca Ferri ($39), is topped with just enough Gorgonzola cheese to accent the savory beef.

Last breath: The desserts are unique, house–made and utterly delicious. TheTruffle Plate ($12) consists of a sampling of bite-size confections. The lemon–flavored truffles are a tart and refreshing treat, and the chocolate truffles are intensely rich. The Chocolate Mousse Cake ($9) is as light as a cloud.

Donald Kim is a freelance writer for Sun Sentinel. This review was adapted from the Showtime section of the Sun-Sentinel.

Cuisine: Italian
Address: 375 S. County Road, Palm Beach; 561-832-0201
amicipalmbeach.com
Cost: expensive
Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V
Hours: lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday; brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday
Reservations: recommended
Bar: full service
Smoking: outdoor tables
Sound level: moderate
Children's facilities: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes

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