Post office gets a Japanese face lift

Domo Japones brings upscale sushi westward

By Riki Altman

Special to Metromix
February 13, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
3

Post office gets a Japanese face lift
(Credit: Domo Japones)
Domo Japones
Address:
4000 NE 2nd Ave., MIami, FL, 33137
Phone:
305-573-5474
Overall User Rating:
5 (2 ratings)
Write a review
Hours:
Noon-3 p.m. Monday-Friday. 6 p.m.-2 a.m. daily.
The Design District has a new neighbor with a funny name: Domo Japones. This former post office turned Japanese restaurant is co-owned by Amir Ben-Zion, the guy behind the ever-popular Townhouse Hotel and its BondSt Lounge, along with Miss Yip Chinese Café on South Beach. Can Domo live up to its South Beach pedigree?

No Kimono Zone: The décor contrasts exuberant sass with modern chic. Take the bare-breasted photo of Naomi Campbell. It’s a blown-up Ellen Von Unwerth shot of the divine diva, hanging alongside girly collages by Eurydice, a local artist–adding a humorous touch to the open, bi-level brick space. The glass stairway leads to the second floor where lounge chairs and a cozy, red-splashed balcony attracts the drinking crowd.

Sushi: Sushi is king at Domo Japones, and the sword-swingers hired to slice and sashimi are royals among their peers. Chef Naohiro "Nao" Higuchi most recently sharpened his sushi knives at Nobu at Atlantis, Paradise Island and Pacific Restaurant in Monte Carlo, while Chef de Cuisine Timon Balloo sliced sashimi at Azul, La Broche, SushiSamba and Chef Allen’s.

Banzai!: Feel free to dig in with some appetizers like the black edamame. Those yummy green pods are sautéed with sweet soy and yuzu (a tart fruit) and are guaranteed to stain your chopsticks. Or be daring and try the veal cheek gyoza, panko-crusted sweet breads, or usu zukuri white fish with a tongue-curling jalapeño, sea salt and blood orange sauce.

Ninja’s Delight: Position those chopsticks well, ‘cause they’ll be maneuvering their way around lots of inventive rolls. One of the most highly lauded menu items is the roll made of shrimp and watercress and wrapped in proscuitto instead of the expected nori. Dipped in the accompanying pineapple-ginger sauce; it’s a salty-sweet, sensual experience. [Note: Refrain from dipping the eel coconut roll in that sauce, however. Not so good.] Those in search of a more traditional meal may opt for the yuzu and truffle Maine lobster. The portion is rather small, but the presentation packs a punch with crimson lobster and dots of chocolate-brown truffle contrasting with a lovely yellow-orange pumpkin puree.

Sake To Me: The server will undoubtedly recommend some sake, so don’t be shy. Give the go-ahead to any of the unique flavors and you won’t be disappointed. It’s part of the Japanese dining experience, right?

Dessert: Be sure to salvage stomach space for dessert. The menu is limited, but, decadent. The fall miso apple crumble with ginger ice cream was heavenly. Cinnamon apple bits and a dollop of ice cream rest on top of a graham-cracker crumble mound. The dish is a bamboo leaf.

Judgment: One thing is for sure: Creativity is key at Domo Japones. Each dish put a smile on our face, from the first bite of the inventive and tasty sushi rolls, to the flowering teas that were served in glass pots, to the sake and the dessert. Dine now, before it’s too busy to get in. We project a new hotspot is among us.

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