Romano's tasting menu scores high

An Italian eatery that puts flavor where your mouth is

By Donald Kim

Special to Metromix
March 25, 2008

Critic's Rating:
5

Romano's tasting menu scores high
Romano's Paradiso
Address:
625 Lucerne Ave, Lake Worth, FL, 33460
Phone:
561-547-2500
Overall User Rating:
0 (0 ratings)
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Hours:
11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.and 5:30-10 p.m. daily.
Official Web Site:
http://www.Paradisolakeworth.com
Chef Angelo Romano's Paradiso restaurant exemplifies excellence. I initially felt a sense of hospitality on the phone when making a reservation; that hospitality was reinforced by the genuine warmth and confidence of the chef and staff.

Inside look: The menu is a superlative exploration of the chef's Italian Riviera background. It relies heavily on locally caught seafood and light (almost simplistic) compositions that skillfully accent the flavors of the high quality ingredients. Every entree is a temptation. Dentice al Sale (yellowtail snapper baked in salt), specialty risotto of various styles, veal tenderloin wrapped in prosciutto and veal and porcini mushroom tortelloni are just a few examples.

I watched, with complete fascination, as a Dentice al Sale was served at the table next to mine. It is an impressive demonstration of skill to see the maitre d' crack open the crusted mound of coarse salt revealing a delicately steamed whole snapper. Using a serving fork and spoon, he deftly plated the fillets. It was an amazing feat as the fish was falling off the bone.

Options: The ability to decide on any of the incredible choices eluded us, so we decided to let the chef be our guide. Paradiso offers "tasting menus" that are the chef's choices and can be paired with his selections of wine for each course. ($60 per person for four courses, $120 paired with wine). At Paradiso, chef choices are NOT a way for the restaurant to get rid of inventory. The chef uses this as an opportunity to showcase his finest creations and demonstrate his superb knowledge of the vintner's art.

First bite: The first course was a portion of extremely fresh and satisfying buffalo mozzarella cheese nestled on arugula, fresh basil leaves and tomato and drizzled with fine olive oil. This was paired with a glass of pinot blanc.

This was followed with a serving of delightfully light and fluffy gnocchi tossed with an excellent smoky cheese sauce paired with cabernet sauvignon.

Second bite: The next course was a filet of fresh pompano generously topped with jumbo lump crab meat and paired with pinot grigio.

Final taste: The final course consisted of an incredible risotto tossed with steamed clams, sauteed shrimp and scallop, and an excellently broiled langostino; this course was paired with a glass of syrah.

Although the tasting menu is available up to seven courses, four courses was an ample amount of food and left room for dessert. The chocolate and Grand Marnier souffles, which need to be ordered early in the meal to allow for a long preparation time, are the perfect end to a perfect meal.

Paradiso absolutely earned its stars. Not because of the meticulously clean and organized restaurant, nor the expert service, or even the amazing food and drink. It is because all these aspects meshed together seamlessly, effortlessly and impeccably. Whereas some restaurants try to impress, Paradiso is simply impressive.
    
Donald Kim s a freelance writer for the Sun-Sentinel. This review was adapted from the Showtime section of the Sun-Sentinel.
   
Cuisine: Mediterranean/Italian
Adress: 625 Lucerne Ave., Lake Worth, 561-547-2500
Paradisolakeworth.com
Cost: expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: suggested
Bar: full service
Sound level: quiet
Smoking: outdoor seating
Wheelchair accessible: yes